Linen is a gorgeous fabric loved for its breathability, texture, and relaxed appearance. It’s also a good beginner fabric as it doesn’t move around too much, although a little more than cotton. There are a few things you need to be aware of before you start sewing with this lovely cloth. From how to prep your linen to perfecting seams and choosing the right pattern, we summarise the 7 steps to ensure perfect results when sewing with linen.
1. Choosing The Right Linen Fabric for your Project
If you have a pattern in mind for linen, check the advice on the pattern regarding the type of linen recommended. Look for information on weight and weave as this will affect the overall drape and look of your finished garment.
- Some light-weight, loose-weave, pale coloured linens can be see-through; check the opacity in-store or ask your online supplier.
- Choose the appropriate weight linen for your project and pattern. A linen jacket will require a heavier weight linen than a dress or shirt. At Fabrics Galore our linen fabric weights range from 160gsm for a pure linen to 230gsm for our washed linen handle (75% linen, 25% cotton).
Linen Weights at Fabrics Galore
| Linen Types | Composition | Weight gsm |
| 100% Linen | 100% Linen | 160gsm |
| Linen and Cotton Chambray | 55% Linen 45% Cotton | 155gsm/175gsm |
| Linen and Viscose | 30% Linen 70% Viscose | 170 gsm |
| Nearly Pure Washed Linen | 87% Linen 13% Cotton | 230 gsm |
| Washed Linen Handle | 75% Linen 25% Cotton | 230 gsm |
| Linen and Viscose Crepe | 30% Linen 70% Viscose | 230 gsm |
| Mercerised 100% Linen | 100% Linen | 240 gsm |
Top Tip: Buy a little more fabric than your pattern suggests allowing for fraying and shrinkage of up to 10% after your pre-wash
2. Prepping Linen Fabric before You Sew
Linen is definitely one of those fabrics which needs careful preparation to get the best results. Follow these rules for a perfect sewing experience with linen.
- To avoid excess fraying, serge the edges of the linen fabric before pre-washing.
- Pre-wash your linen at least once to pre-shrink and “relax” the fibres. This is true even of “washed linens” like our Linen Handles and Nearly Pure Linens - although they have been pre-washed, it's good practice to rewash them to be on the safe side. It will also remove any excess starch.
- Pre-wash the fabric as you intend to wash the finished garment - we suggest a 30 degree machine wash with non-bio laundry detergent.
- Shake to remove the excess creases and ideally line dry or dry flat. Remember that the flax fibres in linen will tighten up after washing, then relax a little when wearing.
- Iron with a steam iron when still a little damp to remove any creases. Use a pressing cloth to avoid excess shine.
Top Tip: After washing, roll the linen fabric on a cardboard roll rather than folding to avoid creasing it before sewing.
3. Cutting Linen fabric
Cutting linen is straightforward if you follow these steps:
- If your linen has been stored for a while after pre-washing, iron it again for a smooth, crease free surface.
- Use a mat to prevent the linen from slipping around your table.
- Check the direction of the grain and lay out your pattern pieces following the grain line accurately.
- Use pattern weights rather than pins which would make visible holes in the fabric.
- Use tailor’s chalk (follow the inside of the chalk line) or a pencil on lighter coloured linen to mark out your pattern pieces.
- When happy with your grain alignment cut the fabric using a rotary cutter or very sharp dressmaking scissors for lighter weight linens.
Top Tip: For easier sewing later, stay stitch all your curved pieces like necklines and armholes immediately after cutting.
4. Sewing Machine set up (Stitch length, Needle and Thread Choice)
- Ensure you have the correct needle size: we recommend an 80/12 needle for medium and heavyweight linens and 70/10 for lighter weight linens. Always use a new needle.
- Use any good quality thread suitable for linen. A cotton thread may be more visible on linen than a polyester thread, but both can work and look good.
- Set your stitch length to between 2.5mm to 3mm.
- Reduce the press foot pressure.
Top Tip: Test on a piece of scrap linen before embarking on your project.
5. Perfect Sewing with Linen
As a fabric woven from long fibres, linen will naturally fray when you sew with it.
- Finish seams either with zigzag stitch or with your overlocker, or even French Seaming.
- Protect raw edges with bias binding or facing.
6. Perfect Seams and Hemlines
Linen is quite a bouncy fabric which can makes seams and hems tricky. We all know that poorly finished seams can ruin a garment, so follow these recommendations from the sewing community for a perfect finish.
- Make sure you have marked the seam allowances on the curved pattern pieces with your chalk or pencil as sewing around the curves can be tricky with linen.
- Mark notches with chalk as well as cutting into the cloth.
- French seams are best for linen projects (this will also help prevent fraying)
- Double fold the hem to completely encase the raw edges.
Top Tip: Team FG recommends applying a lot of steam when ironing the seams to reduce that linen “bounce”.
7. Pattern Selection for Linen Fabric
The Zadie Jumpsuit by Paper Theory Patterns
Pattern selection should really take place before fabric selection as you want to ensure you have the correct type of linen for your chosen sewing project. However, you may have fallen in love with a linen before deciding what to make, so at Fabrics Galore we have selected a few patterns which are ideal for most linens.
In general:
- Choose patterns with a looser fit which suits linen’s relaxed properties and to take advantage of its breathability.
- Choose patterns which work with linen’s natural properties like its slubby texture and visible grain.
- Fabrics Galore’s top favourite pattern for linen is the Zadie Jumpsuit. Find out why in our blog on Why Dressmakers are Crazy for Zadie.
Top Tip: read reviews to check whether sewists had any problems specific to the pattern you have chosen.
More Patterns Suitable for Linen:
A Linen Skirt Pattern
The Merchant & Mills Mathilde Skirt
Linen Shirt and Dress Patterns
Linen Trouser Patterns
Linen Co-ord Outfit Pattern
Friday Pattern Company Saguaro Set
Linen Blouse and Top Patterns
Ready to Sew with Linen?
Follow these 7 steps and you should have everything in place for a perfect linen make, whether it’s a dress, blouse, shirt, trousers, jumpsuit or jacket. If you need help choosing the right linen fabric for your pattern, feel free to contact the team at Fabrics Galore on 020 7738 9589.
Authored by: Annabelle Rigg, Online and Store Manager at Fabrics Galore London
Reviewed by: Paul Johnston, Owner and Founder of Fabrics Galore London since 1992
