We at FG Headquarters have long had a slight obsession with double gauze, and we thought we should share our reasons for this. We mostly love it for its almost cuddly texture and also the pretty muted colours we have in stock at the moment, but there is more to it than that. It can be used for so many different sewing projects and is just so soft too. Discover your love for this wonderful fabric with our complete guide to double gauze.
What is Double Gauze?
So, let’s start at the beginning - what on earth is double gauze? Well, to put it simply it is 100% cotton fabric, but what makes it so special is that it’s two (hence the double) layers of fine cotton invisibly attached together by tiny stitches at regular intervals. Not only that, but unlike a cotton poplin or a lawn, the layers have a slightly looser open weave giving the cloth more texture which is both snuggly and lightweight.
Is Double gauze the same as muslin?
Double gauze can be confused with muslin, because the individual layers used for double gauze have a similar texture to muslin. But the key difference is that a double gauze is built from layers of cloth, whereas muslin is a single layer of a very loose weave cotton. The uses of muslin are also fewer than for double gauze, and it is slightly less practical for dressmaking as it is pretty much entirely see-through.
What can you make with Double Gauze Fabric?
Dressmaking with Double Gauze
When we first stocked double gauze fabric, we put it down as a strictly spring and summer cloth because of its loose weave and airy coolness. Both breathable and cooling, it has been especially popular for all the loose dresses we had prepped for our long hot summer or the Tilly and the Buttons Stevie Tunic which recommends double gauze as a fabric for this easy to sew top or tunic dress. Some of the colours and new prints we have are so pretty in case you were planning to go big on your summer wardrobe for this year….
Organic White Cotton Eucalyptus and Pistachio Green Double Gauze
Due to the loose weave of the fabric it is best suited to flowing relaxed styles unless you want to spend ages ironing all the natural crinkle out of it every time you wear it. We were thinking actually that a basic t-shirt shape might work especially nicely, and it could be a good alternative to jersey if you aren’t quite ready to start sewing with stretch. You can’t go wrong with a nice white t-shirt….
But even though it's perfect in the summer, we also discovered that actually it’s ideal for the cooler months. The double layers of cotton have some insulating qualities, making it great for layering tops and just might mean you can still wear the summer dresses made from double gauze with a jumper into autumn. As we are all aiming for trans-seasonal dressing since our Green Week Blog identified the benefits of a sustainable capsule wardrobe.
Now we know that double gauze can be worn into Autumn and Winter we also had a brain wave; what we all really want at this time of year is a cosy pair of pyjamas and double gauze would make a great pair. Not only that, the plain colours we have at the moment could work really well paired with some more traditional brushed cotton for your sleepwear.
Cotton Double Gauze Navy and Brushed Cotton Bill
Patchwork and Quilting with Double Gauze
Now this may be controversial but hear us out. We have already said it’s cosy and has insulating properties so what about using it to back a quilt? We thought it would work especially well for a baby quilt, the soft colours, it’s 100% cotton and the chunky nature of it will only add to the cuddly nature of the quilt. The texture it has from the double layer also means that it’s not a flat dull plain colour, so it won’t take away from a great piece of patchwork on the front.
Browse the double gauze fabric collection
Just look at how well this mustard double gauze looks with a leopard print and some poplin blenders, we thought it would be pretty good for a more contemporary bit of patchwork.
Lula's Leopard Golden Brown and Double Gauze Mustard
Is Double Gauze hard to work with?
Now let’s level with you, double gauze isn’t quite like sewing with other types of cotton, it doesn’t have the crisp edges of poplin. However, nor is it the drama of cutting out a draped fabric that moves around even while you are looking at it. For the cutting out we would recommend using weights and marking any details with tailor’s chalk to avoid them getting lost in the texture.
- If using double gauze for clothing, we would also say you want to either double hem your raw edge or do a French seam. This is because the loose weave of the layers of cotton might cause it to fray so you need to avoid that to get a long life out of the garment.
Should I pre- wash double gauze?
This isn’t just for double gauze, it is always good practice to pre-wash your fabric before you start making it, the same way you will wash your finished garment, to avoid spending all that time making something only to have it shrink after your first wear. We just don’t want you to be disappointed.
How to Sew with Double Gauze - Top Tips
Sewing with double gauze can be a bit tricky to handle due to its loose weave, so here's a some top tips to make your sewing journey smoother. As mentioned earlier, start by washing and drying your fabric to pre-shrink it, as double gauze tends to shrink more than other fabrics.
- As a fabric, double gauze stretches out of shape easily so needs to be handled gently.
- Double Gauze moves a lot - so it takes careful cutting. Weighing it down and using a rotary cutter might work best, or failing that, nice sharp scissors. Aside from that, use a lot of pins.
- You need to decide if you are going to iron your double gauze garment or not and once you have decided, stick to it. Otherwise the finished garment may not fit.
- For the actual sewing, it would be easier to use a Walking Foot and we have heard that using a ballpoint needle might be helpful, but we are yet to experiment with it. Or at least opt for a new, sharp needle on your sewing machine - a size 70 or 80 should work well.
- Sew with a slightly longer stitch length to prevent puckering, and finish your seams with an overlocker or a zigzag stitch to prevent fraying.
Ready to Sew with Double Gauze Fabric?
So now we have de-mystified this wonderful fabric, are you ready to start sewing? If so, head over to our double gauze fabric collection online to find our complete range of plain double gauze in a variety of gorgeous colours from mulberry to coral pink. You’ll even find a tie dye double gauze fabric and more to inspire your next make. And if you still have questions don’t hesitate to get in touch with the team at our fabric shop in London by calling 0207 738 9589.
