The Best Sewing Patterns for Jeans
Many sewists are daunted by the thought of making their own jeans but as the hardest working item of most people’s wardrobes, maybe now is the time to embrace the challenge and embark on a slower sewing project. We have interviewed our team at Fabrics Galore to discover their favourite tried and tested jeans patterns which they have found to produce the best results on their sewing machines.
Advice for Choosing a Jeans Pattern
- Look at your favourite pair of jeans to see what style suits you best and you have worn the most often. With so many jeans’ styles to choose from, including skinny, straight leg, bootcut, flared, wide-leg, boyfriend, baggy or barrel-leg, determining your ideal cut will help you select the right jeans pattern for your body shape. Do you prefer high waisted or a low-rise slouchy fit that sits on the hips?
- The first time attempting to make your own jeans, pattern specialists recommend choosing a pattern with a wide leg looser fitting jeans style as the more fitted styles may be harder to achieve a good fit.
- Think about all the techniques you will need to tackle when making jeans. Most Jeans patterns require a lot of topstitching so you should be comfortable with your ability or be happy to learn along the way. Add in multiple pockets, a zip fly and you will need time and patience.
- When looking at patterns, check whether a stretch denim or classic non-stretch denim is recommended, and decide your preference.
- Be aware of different weights of denim which will be different for each jeans pattern.
- Once you have chosen your denim fabric, remember to pre-wash it separately on a cold setting to avoid shrinkage and to remove any excess dye bleed particularly with our indigo denims. To avoid any potential streaking of dye, Fabrics Galore recommends pre-soaking the fabric in lukewarm water for a couple of hours before putting in the machine. Try not to overload the machine giving the denim plenty of space, and a minimal amount of detergent.
- Be sure to check out our advice on sewing with denim for top tips.
- Check out the excellent Jeans Hardware kits from Kylie and the Machine which contain buttons, fly buttons, rivets, button nails and rivet nails in copper, brass, silver, pewter and matt black.
Fabrics Galore’s Favourite Jeans Patterns
Merchant and Mills – The Heroine
The Merchant & Mills The Heroine is a Fabrics Galore Team Favourite and features in many makers’ top jeans pattern lists. A classic vintage-look straight leg, high waist jeans pattern, Merchant & Mills recommend making a toile version first to understand the pattern instructions and adjust the fit if necessary.
- a fitted high waist
- a straight, generous leg
- turn up vintage style jeans
- Size 6-18
- Recommended fabric: a heavier weight 8-12.5 oz non stretch denim
- Technique: topstitched seams
-
Makers Tip: use a heavy-duty thread rather than a topstitch thread for a more authentic look and ease of use
The Modern Sewing Company Worker Trousers
Another favourite at Fabrics Galore, the Worker Trousers pattern is a best-seller for a reason: extremely comfortable and practical, designed to last a long time the pattern comes in sizes 4-28.
- Mid-waist style sitting above the hip but not too high up.
- Fitted on the hips then a slight flare over the thigh before tapering to the ankle.
- Recommended fabrics: mid to heavy weight twill, denim or canvas.
- Techniques: Concealed button fly or zip fly, side pockets, patch pockets, flat-felled seam, waistband and belt loops.
-
Makers Tip: check that you can sew through 5 layers of your chosen fabric.
Closet Core Patterns Morgan Jeans
Reviewers love the fail-safe instructions and minimal adjustments needed.
- Mid-rise
- Contoured waistband
- Tapered leg and button fly.
- Snug fit through the hip
- Regular or cropped length
- Optional leather waistband patch
- Recommended fabrics: non-stretch denim, twill, canvas or heavier weight linen.
- Techniques: top-stitching, pockets
-
Maker’s Tip: heavier weight denims have less give and you may need to go up a size.
New Craft House Everyday Jeans
A straight leg and plenty of movement make these jeans great for everyday wear. From the pattern makers who teach jean sewing classes!
- high waisted jeans pattern
- snug fit on hips and bum
- relaxed fit on the thigh
- straight leg
- Recommended fabrics: Non stretch medium weight denim, corduroy, or twill
-
Maker’s Tip: may be sewn with a 1-2% stretch denim: size down and make a toile.
Cashmerette Ames Jeans
This is a highly versatile pattern for stretch jeans as it offers an interchangeable pelvis for apple or pear shapes and with a skinny or straight leg option.
- A clever design for an experienced dressmaker
- Customisable pattern for different body shapes, especially curves
- 5 pocket jeans and a pocket stay for smooth outlines
- Rivets, belts and a zip fly front.
- Recommended fabrics: 9.5-12oz stretch denim with 2% lycra and 10-15% crosswise stretch
- Maker’s Tip: check the designer’s size chart and finished garment measurements.
Megan Nielson Dawn Jeans
We have possibly saved the best until last with the Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans 4-in-1 pattern. Another Fabrics Galore Team Favourite, this has over 70 5-star reviews where reviewers praised the fit and versatility and the detailed well explained instructions which make it approachable for less experienced sewists.
- 4 options for (tapered, straight leg, wide leg or shorts)
- High waisted rigid style
- Button fly
- Close fitted on the waist and hips
- Multiple lengths: tall, regular, or cropped
- Dawn Sewalong Tutorial Blog which guides you through every step
- Recommended fabrics: rigid denim, twill or corduroy
- Maker’s Tip: make a toile of the shorts version to perfect the fit on the waist and hips .
Wide Leg needs a 10oz denim
Fabrics Galore Top Tip: 320gsm weight denim translates to just under 10oz.
Which Jeans Pattern Will You Sew?
Whether you’re drawn to a classic vintage cut, a modern workwear-inspired shape or a pair designed specifically for curves, there’s a jeans pattern here to suit every style and sewing ambition.
While making jeans is undeniably a more complicated sewing project, it’s also one of the most rewarding – producing a garment that fits you perfectly and will become a true wardrobe staple. With the right pattern, fabric, notions, and a little patience, you can transform a daunting challenge into a deeply satisfying sewing milestone.
So why not take the plunge and create a pair of handmade jeans that are uniquely yours? For advice on which of our denims are right for your project, please email the team on howdy@fabricsgalore.co.uk or message us on our socials @fabricsgalorelondon
Authored by: Annabelle Rigg, Online and Store Manager at Fabrics Galore London
Reviewed by: Paul Johnston, Owner and Founder of Fabrics Galore London since 1992
Feature Image by Michaela St on Unsplash
