Many dressmakers confuse twill, gabardine and denim when they shop for fabric, so at Fabrics Galore London, we thought we would clear up the misunderstandings and clarify what each term means for your fabric choices.
Which is a Weave and Which is a Fabric?
One of the most common misconceptions is that twill is a fabric in its own right, while in fact it is a type of weave used in various fabrics. At Fabrics Galore London, we stock both cotton twill and wool twill. Gabardine and denim on the other hand, are simply fabrics that use a twill weave.
Twill, Gabardine and Denim: Quick Guide for Dressmakers
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Feature
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Twill
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Gabardine
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Denim
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What is it?
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A weave
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A type of fabric
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A type of fabric
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Surface
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Visible diagonal lines
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A fine diagonal rib
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Visible diagonal lines
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Texture
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Matte
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Slight sheen
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Matte
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Feel
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Varies
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Smooth and firm
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Coarse
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Typical look
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Casual or smart
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Smart and tailored
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Casual fashion and workwear
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Ideal to Sew
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Trousers, skirts and jackets
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Tailored trousers, jackets, and coats
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Jeans, skirts, jackets, and dungarees
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What is Twill?
Twill is a type of weave which creates diagonal lines across the surface of a fabric. Another common misconception is that twill fabrics are always heavy-weight. Although the Cambridge dictionary defines twill as a strong cotton cloth, twill fabrics can differ significantly in their fibre composition, weight, drape, and softness. So, when you see a fabric described as twill, it is important to check these elements so you understand how the fabric will behave and whether it its suitable for your intended garment.
Key Features of Twill
- Diagonal rib pattern running from left to right at a 45-degree angle.
- The outside is usually darker than the underside.
- It has a high thread count - making it thick and durable.
- Often made in cotton, polyester, or a blend of the two.
- It is stain and crease resistant.
- Twill is one of the three basic weaves (the other two are plain and satin).
- Twill can be lightweight, depending on the yarn used.
- Denim is the most popular and well-known twill fabric.
Fabrics Galore Pure Wool Twill Weave Bouclé Fabric
What is Gabardine?
Gabardine is a tightly woven, smooth fabric with a distinctive diagonal rib pattern on the outer surface and a smooth back. The gabardine fabric may be made from a variety of fibres, often cotton and polyester to name just two. The tight weave helps to make it water resistant as light rain tends to roll off the fabric rather than penetrate it.
The History of Gabardine
In Medieval times the original word gaberdine (with an “e”) referred to a long, loose cloak and later a protective smock worn by workers and children. Gaberdine is even referenced in two of Shakespeare’s plays, The Merchant of Venice and The Tempest.
The modern-day version of Gabardine was created by Thomas Burberry in the 1870’s, and he took out a patent on his new tight-weave gabardine fabric in 1888, as a lightweight alternative to the heavy and stiff rubber raincoats of the time. The Burberry Gabardine is produced to this day in Keighley - West Yorkshire.
Aquascutum vs Burberry
The famous Burberry Trenchcoat at the V&A Museum
John Emary of Aquascutum, meaning “water shield” in Latin, patented the first waterproof textile in 1851, supplying waterproof wool coats for the Crimean war. Both Aquascutum, created in 1851 by John Emary and Burberry (1856) claimed to have invented the military trench coat with Burberry supplying hundreds of thousands of coats for WW1.
In the late 20th century, both brands crossed over into British high street fashion, although Burberry became known for the highly visible and distinctive “nova check” pattern while Aquascutum was seen as a more classic traditional brand. Unable to modernise and keep pace with trends, Aquascutum folded in 2012.
There is currently a small exhibition at the V&A celebrating 170 years of Burberry which runs until January 3rd, The Burberry Trench: Crafting an Icon
Since then, many other companies have created different types of gabardine, making it now a generic term for fabrics with a tight, twill weave and water-resistant qualities.
Features of Gabardine
- Gabardine fabric features diagonal ribbing created by a tightly woven twill weave.
- It can be made with cotton, wool or polyester and even viscose and silk.
- It has water resistant properties.
- The weight can be anywhere between 200-350gsm/ 0.5mm-1.2mm thick
- Naturally weather resistant due to the tightly twisted yarns which offer natural wind resistance.
- Breathable even though it’s durable and tough - which was unlike any of the water-resistant fabrics available at the time of its invention.
What is Gabardine Used for?
Gabardine is ideal for trench style coats, jackets, blazers, suits, trousers and skirts.
What is Denim?
Different weight denims at Fabrics Galore London
Denim, like Gabardine, is a hard-wearing fabric, woven with indigo-dyed warp yarns and undyed weft yarns, often in a twill weave. The denim weight varies from soft lightweight denim to heavyweight, rigid denim while the addition of elastane or polyester offers stretch versions.
Denim fabric showing twill weave
The Origin of Denim
Legend has it that the name originated from the French Serge de Nîmes - but this fabric may have been a silk/wool mix rather than pure cotton. Around the same time, a pure cotton twill called “jean”, manufactured in Genoa, Italy was worn by sailors and labourers.
In 1873 Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis patented an “Improvement in Fastening Pocket Openings” which described the distinctive, pocket-strengthening rivets added to denim work pants, which resulted in the iconic working trouser or “jeans”.
Originally made from copper, the rivets were later made from silver-coloured metals before reverting to a copper or brass base in the 1990s. This is the birth of denim jeans as we know them today. By 1934 Levi was manufacturing denim blue trousers or jeans for women.
Read our blog on the history of jeans to find out more about the history of denim and jeans.
Features of Denim
- Strong and durable
- Twill Woven: often in blue and white.
- Indigo dyed yarn with a white or undyed weft yarn.
- Other properties include high tensile strength, abrasion resistance, and good colour fasting.
- Traditional denim is made with 100% Cotton - so it can be quite stiff and rigid to start, although this will soften with wear.
- Denim weights can vary significantly, from lightweight denims such as our 6oz stonewashed cotton denims, to a heavyweight 16oz, which is better suited to jackets rather than jeans.
- Traditional denim is dyed dark blue with indigo dye which bleeds when washed and fades in the sun..
- Selvedge denim is one of the highest qualities of denim, made on narrow looms with clean finished edges.
What is Denim Used for?
Denim is best for jeans, dungarees, shorts, denim skirts, jackets and dresses.
Which Fabric is Right for Your Project?
For trousers, skirts and jackets, explore twill fabrics in different weights and fibres according to your pattern recommendations for drape, look and feel.
For a smart, smooth finished garment, choose gabardine fabric.
For classic jeans and casual clothes, choose denim.
Remember that you can always call or email our friendly team at our fabric shop in London to advise whether you need a twill, denim or gabardine. You can also order samples so you can assess each fabric’s suitability for your project.
Authored by: Annabelle Rigg, Online and Store Manager at Fabrics Galore London
Reviewed by: Paul Johnston, Owner and Founder of Fabrics Galore London since 1992
Feature Image: Photo by Chermiti Mohamed on Unsplash
