How to Choose the Right Type of Sweatshirt Fabric

How to Choose the Right Type of Sweatshirt Fabric

Choosing the Right Sweatshirt Fabric

(Updated September 2026)


Sweatshirts are one of the most comfortable garments you can possibly wear and have become an incredibly popular wardrobe staple throughout the entire year. Now that it’s getting colder, it’s time to think about making clothes which not only look and feel amazing - but keep us warm too! Sewing your very own sweatshirt can be a quick and easy project but you need to know which type of sweatshirt fabric is best for your particular pattern. If you choose correctly,  you will be pleasantly surprised to discover that the fabric choices available are normally some of the easiest to work with.

Read on to learn about the different types of sweatshirt fabric and how to choose the right one, followed by some great sweatshirt pattern inspiration. 

What are the different types of sweatshirting?

 

Organic heavyweight sweatshirt fabric in grey, yellow, burgundy and taupe
Organic Heavy Sweatshirt Fabric

 


When buying sweatshirting for your next project, it is always helpful to know your fabric options to work out which is best suited to your make. 


The different types of sweatshirt fabric:


  • French Terry
  • Loopback
  • Brushed Back
  • Fleece Backed
  • Heavy sweatshirting


All types of sweatshirting tend to have a little bit of stretch, so the main differences between them is the weight and the backing. A Brushed Back or Fleece Backed sweatshirting has a fleecy inside which feels soft and cosy making it better for colder days. However, because of the fluffy nature of the cloth, it can shed during sewing and the first few wears. 


Here at Fabrics Galore London, we have two weights of Brushed Back Sweatshirting - 225gsm and 250gsm -  the brushed back is more of a lightweight sweatshirt in comparison to the Heavy Sweatshirting which is the most common weight at 320gsm for ready to wear sweatshirts. 

 

Cotton Rich Sweatshirt Fabric - Blue



Which Sweatshirt Fabric Should I Choose?


Sweatshirting Type

Backing

Fabric Weight
Warmth

Attributes
Best for

Brushed Back

Soft brushed surface

Medium

250gsm
Warm 

Soft, slightly fluffy, cosy Interior

Warmer than Loop back, not as warm as Heavy Sweatshirting.

Limited shedding
Good for everyday, cosy sweatshirts, children’s wear


Fleece backed


Fleece pile


Medium to Heavy

250gsm - 320gsm

Warm

Soft and snuggly interior
Warmer than brushed back
Bulkier than brushed back

Winter sweatshirts and hoodies

Heavy Sweatshirting

Brushed or Fleece Backed

320gsm

Extremely warm

Softer and Cosy Interior

Warmest

Fleece backed sheds more than loop back

Takes the Longest to Dry

Warm Winter sweatshirts, hoodies

French Terry

Rows of Neat Loops

Light to medium

230gsm
A cosy but lightweight layer
Absorbs Moisture Well
Dries Quicker than Brushed Back 
Resists Pilling
Spring/autumn sweatshirts, joggers

Loop Back

Rows of Neat Loops

Light to medium

230gsm

A cosy but lightweight layer
Absorbs Moisture Well
Dries Quicker than Brushed Back 
Resists Pilling
Spring/autumn Sweatshirts, hoodies, loungewear




French Terry vs Loopback: What’s the Difference?

 

95% Cotton 5% Elastane Leopard Print French Terry Fabric with Tropical Motifs
Leopard Print French Terry Fabric

French Terry and Loop Back Jersey are actually very similar, as they are both knit fabrics with loops on the reverse side. 

With a lighter weight than the brushed back or fleece backed sweatshirt fabrics, French Terry or Loop back Sweatshirt fabric still have some stretch making them perfect for more casual and cooler clothing such as a summer sweatshirt. 

The name Loop back comes from the tiny loops which are characteristic of its backing, although the exterior remains totally smooth like a jersey fabric. The size of the loops can differ but the loop back sweatshirt fabrics stocked at Fabrics Galore London are all very small loops.

The name French Terry- comes from the French verb “tirer” meaning to pull, referencing the loops pulled through in the manufacturing process. The addition of the word French distinguishes it from towelling or Terry Towelling which has loops on both sides rather than just the reverse. 

Brushed Back vs Fleece Backed sweatshirt


Brushed Back Jersey is usually made from natural fibres and is probably what most people are familiar with because it is used more often in Ready to Wear garments. 

Fleece Backed Jersey Sweatshirt fabric is often ‘heavier’ (has far more of a pile), has a cosier feel and is manufactured using synthetic fibres.

 

   
Fleece Backed sweatshirt fabric in powder blue and sage green


What GSM means for your choice of sweatshirt fabric


GSM refers to grammes per square meter so the higher the GSM, the heavier and warmer the fabric. However, the fibre composition and reverse finishing (looped, brushed or fleece) also affect the warmth. A heavier weight isn’t always the best choice for every sweatshirt pattern. 

  • For example, the heavy sweatshirting at Fabrics Galore London is 320gsm and suitable for winter sweatshirts.
  • The brushed back sweatshirting is 250gsm and suitable for Spring and Autumn
  • The French Terry or Loop Back sweatshirting is 230gsm and ideal for an additional layer in Summer. 
Read more about understanding fabric weight in our Beginner's Guide to Choosing Dressmaking Fabric Online.


What is sweatshirt fabric made from?


Sweatshirt fabric can be made from natural or synthetic fibres and is usually a combination of both to provide an element of stretch which makes sweatshirts so comfortable to wear and recover their shape well. 

  • 100% Cotton

Sweatshirt fabric made from 100% cotton is comfortable and breathable due to the natural fibre composition. After washing and wearing, it will recover its shape less well than cotton and elastane blends. 

  • Cotton and elastane blend

High-quality sweatshirt fabrics are often made with a high percentage of cotton (ours are 95%) and a small amount of elastane (5%) for stretch. The cotton provides good breathability and comfort while the elastane provides comfort and recovery. This blend is particularly good for cuffs and waistbands. 

  • Cotton and Polyester blend

This is a more durable fabric blend which can be less prone to shrinking, washes well and is useful for hard-wearing sweatshirts. 

  • Organic Cotton and Recycled Fibres

At Fabrics Galore London our heavy sweatshirting fabrics are made from 82% organic cotton and 18% recycled polyester and meet the global OEKO-TEX 100 standard, which means it is manufactured without the use of harmful chemicals.


What else can you make with sweatshirt fabric?


Sweatshirt fabric can be used to make a variety of casual garments, like hoodies, jumpers, cardigans, joggers, loungewear, childrenswear, baby clothes and nightwear.  Different weights of sweatshirting will be more suitable for different garment types. You would not want to sleep in fleece backed pyjamas, for example, as it would be way too warm. 

Beginner Tips for sewing sweatshirt fabric


The most important tip is to use the correct needle (see below). Please also refer to our Basic Sweatshirt Sewing Techniques which has some great advice for beginners. Be careful not to stretch the fabric while cutting out the pattern pieces and while sewing. 

What Needle Do You Use for Sweatshirting?

 

ball point needles

When sewing with sweatshirt fabrics, it’s best to use a ball point needle (the same needle you need for jersey or knits). Although not all sweatshirting fabrics contain stretch, the structure still needs the rounded needle. You should either sew sweatshirts together with a zig-zag stitch ,or even better with an overlocker as it allows the garment to maintain flexibility in the shape. 

What do you use on the Collars and Cuffs of Sweatshirts?

 

   Scoured Cotton/Elastane Tubular Jersey Ribbing Fabric - Oatmeal
Different styles of ribbing at Fabrics Galore London

With sweatshirt collars and cuffs, you have two options - you can use the fabric from the main body or use a ribbing or cuffing. The benefits of using a ribbing or a cuffing is greater elasticity, which can make taking the garment on and off much easier. However, if the fabric you are using for the body has some stretch to it - this will also work for the collars and cuffs. 
 
At Fabrics Galore London we have a range of ribbing which come in a variety of colours to contrast or match any sweatshirt you have in mind. 

What is sweatshirt ribbing?


Sweatshirt ribbing is a stretchy knit fabric which is sold in a tubular format to provide additional structure and strength around the key areas of the garment. It is used for neckbands, cuffs and waistbands, and offers more stability and recovery than simply using the same fabric as the body of the garment. You can also use a contrasting colour or patterned ribbing to create more interest on the finished sweatshirt. 

Caring for sweatshirt fabric


  • Should You Pre-wash sweatshirt fabric?

Yes, all cotton-rich fabrics may shrink after washing so pre-wash before cutting. Follow the manufacturer’s washing and drying instructions and dry the fabric as you would the finished garment.  As mentioned earlier, brushed back or fleece backed sweatshirting may shed some lint for the first few washes and wears. 

  • How to prevent pilling

Synthetic fibres like polyester may be more prone to pilling than cotton, so wash garments inside out at low temperatures to avoid pilling. 

How much fabric do you need to make a sweatshirt?


2 metres should be plenty for a sweatshirt make, or perhaps 1.5 metres if you are using ribbing for the collar and cuffs. 

What are the Best Sweatshirt Patterns?

Team FG have picked out some of their favourite sweatshirt patterns, if you are feeling inspired to whip one up…


Named Clothing - Aalto Sweatshirt

 


Style: The Aalto Sweatshirt is an everyday sweatshirt with distinct and interesting details. Perfect for showing off your top stitching. 

Skill Level: Confident Beginners

Recommended fabrics: Medium Weight Sweatshirting with ribbing for the cuffs and collars. It could even work with a lightweight neoprene. 

Seasonality: Early Autumn or Late Spring

Why our team loves it: The interesting wave details makes this an elevated everyday sweatshirt - and would be great to experiment with colour blocking or mixing prints. 


Tilly and the Buttons - Drew Sweatshirt

 

Drew sweatshirt pattern

 

Style: The Drew Sweatshirt is an easy fitting sweatshirt with raglan sleeves, perfect for using up scraps to make a unique sweatshirt. Options for either hip length or a more cropped version. 

Skill Level: Confident Beginners

Recommended fabrics: Any weight of sweatshirting or French Terry with ribbing for the collars and cuffs. Potentially could be made with polar fleece for extra warmth. 

Seasonality: Spring

Why our team loves it: The colour blocking opportunities make it a great scrap busting sew, it can be made very quickly for added satisfaction and has the option of matching jogging bottoms (perfect for working from home…)


Maison Fauve - Granite Sweatshirt

 

Maison Fauve Granite sweatshirt pattern


Style: The Granite Sweatshirt has incredible sleeves, with elongated shoulders for a softer shape, great for a more sophisticated take on sportswear. 

Skill Level: Confident Beginners

Recommended fabrics: Any jerseys or knits as well as sweatshirting or French terry, but they do need to be 140cm wide

Seasonality: Anytime, depending on the fabrics you have chosen, although the sleeves may make it harder to layer up. 

Why our team loves it: The sleeves are the main event with this sweatshirt and looks especially impactful in a stripe. 

 

95% Cotton 5% Elastane Cream & Navy Breton Stripe French Terry Fabric
Striped Cotton French Terry


Grainline - Linden Sweatshirt

 

Style: The Linden Sweatshirt is an Oldie but a Goodie. A classic shape with raglan sleeves and a relaxed fit. The Linden has been around for years and has never fallen out of favour. 

Skill Level: Beginners

Recommended fabrics: Medium Weight Knits which must have some stretch

Seasonality: Autumn (it’s great for layering as the weather gets cooler)

Why our team loves it: This sweatshirt has been a classic for quite some time, and it can always be relied upon as a great basic you will wear over and over again.


Maison Fauve - Ressac Sweatshirt

 

Style: The Ressac Sweatshirt is an elevated, modern, sophisticated sweatshirt with lots of little details to show off your skills. 

Skill Level: Intermediate

Recommended fabrics: Can be made with a mixture of jersey and sweatshirting but the collar and cuffs must be made with ribbing. 

Seasonality: Autumn/Winter

Why our team loves it: It has pockets and gives a sportier feel than some of the loungewear style sweatshirts listed above. 


Sew Liberated - Nest Sweatshirt

 


Style: The Nest Sweatshirt is a fun and interesting pattern featuring a subtle v neck and combining a patchwork quilt block centre, so it’s great for scraps and will make a fun addition to any wardrobe. 

Skill Level: Intermediate

Recommended fabrics: French Terry

Seasonality: Autumn

Why our team loves it: It uses up lots of little pieces to make something totally unique to you - surely the whole point of dressmaking. 



Choosing the right sweatshirt fabric for you


Hopefully the above guide has helped you better understand sweatshirt fabric composition, weights and possible uses.  With your new knowledge of sweatshirt fabric, sewing tips and some sweatshirt pattern inspiration, do have a look at our collection of sweatshirt fabrics, each of which shows the fibre composition, weight and recommended use. Whichever sweatshirt material you choose, make sure you have the correct sewing machine needle for knit fabrics.

To have a conversation with Paul, or another member of our team, regarding our fabrics, you are more than welcome to telephone us on 020 7738 9589. By signing up to our free newsletter, we can provide you with regular email updates about your favourite fabrics here at Fabrics Galore London.

 

Authored by:  Annabelle Rigg, Online and Store Manager at Fabrics Galore London

Reviewed by: Paul Johnston, Owner and Founder of Fabrics Galore London since 1992

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